Wheel Bearings & Hubs

Wheel Bearings and Hubs for Sale

On this page you can buy wheel bearings and hubs, complete hub assemblies, and steering knuckles with the bearing already pressed in. Every product above can be ordered online, and each listing shows the vehicle, the year range, the side of the car and the OE or interchange number. If you hear a humming or grinding noise that gets louder with speed, feel play in a wheel, or have an ABS light that came on after a bearing started making noise, these are the parts to look at.

Most modern cars no longer use loose bearings that you pack with grease. They use a sealed hub assembly: the bearing, the hub flange, the wheel studs and often the ABS sensor ring all in one unit. We sell those units, and we also sell knuckle and hub assemblies, which save you from pressing a bearing in and out of the knuckle, a job that normally needs a hydraulic press.

Below you will find the full list of products with their specs, how wheel bearings and hubs work, the warning signs of a failing bearing, how to order the right one, what the replacement involves, and answers to common questions.

Wheel Bearings and Hubs We Sell

Wheel Bearing and Hub Assemblies

Steering Knuckle and Hub Bearing Assemblies

These come with the knuckle, the bearing and the hub as one piece. You unbolt the old knuckle and bolt this one on, without pressing bearings.

Steering Knuckles and Spindles

Can't find your vehicle? Try the brand pages, such as Toyota parts, Honda parts, Ford parts or Subaru parts.

How Wheel Bearings and Hubs Work

Every wheel spins on a bearing. Inside it are two rows of steel balls or tapered rollers running between hardened steel races. The bearing lets the wheel turn freely while carrying the weight of the car, the side forces in corners and the braking load.

The hub is the flange the wheel bolts to. On older vehicles the bearing and hub were separate: the bearing sat in the knuckle and you packed it with grease every so often. Most cars built since the 1990s use a sealed hub unit instead. The bearing is factory-greased and sealed for life, and the whole thing bolts to the knuckle with three or four bolts. Many hub units also carry the toothed or magnetic ring that the ABS wheel speed sensor reads.

The knuckle (also called the spindle or upright) is the cast part that holds the hub and connects to the strut, the control arm and the tie rod. On many Toyota, Honda and Ford models, the bearing is pressed into the knuckle. That is why a complete knuckle assembly is such a time-saver. If you want more background, the wheel hub assembly article on Wikipedia explains the different generations of hub design.

Signs of a Bad Wheel Bearing

  • Humming or droning that rises with speed. This is the classic sign. It often sounds like tyre noise at first, then gets louder over weeks.
  • The noise changes when you turn. If the hum gets louder when you steer gently left, the right side bearing is usually the one loaded and failing, and the opposite way round.
  • Grinding or growling. A late-stage bearing grinds. At this point it needs replacing right away.
  • Play in the wheel. Lift the car and rock the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Any clunk or movement points to a worn bearing.
  • ABS or traction control light. A worn bearing lets the sensor ring wobble, and the ABS system reads it as a fault.
  • Uneven brake pad wear or a pulsing pedal. Play in the hub lets the disc wobble against the pads.
  • Steering that pulls or feels loose. Excessive play changes the wheel angle as you drive.

Do not leave a noisy bearing for long. In the worst case a seized or broken bearing can lock the wheel or let it separate from the car. If the noise has turned into grinding, park it and replace the part.

How to Choose the Right Wheel Bearings and Hubs

  1. Front or rear. Front and rear hubs are usually different. A few vehicles, like the Enclave, Traverse and Acadia listed above, use the same unit in both places.
  2. Left or right. Hub units are often the same on both sides, but knuckles are always side-specific. Check driver or passenger side in the title.
  3. Drive type. 2WD, 4WD and AWD versions can use different hubs. A driven wheel needs a splined hub for the axle shaft.
  4. ABS. Most hubs now include the ABS sensor or tone ring. Make sure the connector on the new part matches the old one.
  5. Interchange number. Numbers like 513303, 513296, 513277 and 513253 are standard interchange numbers. If your old hub carries one, match it.
  6. Engine size and trim. Some models use different hubs depending on engine size or brake package, as with the Civic 1.5L and 1.8L or the Camry SE and XSE.

If you need help, send your VIN through our contact page and we will confirm the right wheel bearings and hubs for your car.

What Replacement Involves

A bolt-on hub assembly is one of the easier suspension jobs. A typical sequence looks like this, but follow the service manual for your car:

  1. Loosen the axle nut and wheel nuts while the car is on the ground.
  2. Lift and support the car on axle stands, then remove the wheel.
  3. Remove the brake caliper and hang it with wire. Do not let it hang on the brake hose. Remove the brake disc.
  4. Unplug the ABS sensor if it is part of the hub.
  5. Remove the axle nut and the hub bolts from the back of the knuckle. Rusted hubs may need a puller or penetrating oil.
  6. Clean the mounting face on the knuckle so the new hub sits flat. Rust on this face causes brake judder.
  7. Fit the new hub, torque the bolts, refit the disc and caliper, and reconnect the ABS sensor.
  8. Torque the axle nut to the specified value. Never use an impact gun to tighten an axle nut on a hub bearing, as it can damage the bearing.

A knuckle assembly adds a few steps: separating the ball joint, tie rod end and strut. After fitting a knuckle, get a wheel alignment. Lift spindles like our 4.5 inch Silverado and Sierra knuckles change the geometry more, so follow the instructions closely and always align the truck after.

Making New Hub Bearings Last

Sealed bearings need no greasing, but you can still shorten their life. Avoid hitting potholes and kerbs hard, as impacts dent the races. Do not pressure-wash directly at the hub seal. Keep wheels balanced, because vibration wears bearings. When fitting wheels, tighten the nuts in a star pattern to the correct torque. Lifted trucks with large wheels and tyres put more load on hubs, so check them more often.

Should You Replace Both Sides?

It is not always necessary, but it often makes sense. Both sides have done the same miles, and if one has failed the other is usually not far behind. That is why several of our wheel bearings and hubs are sold as pairs. If you are paying for labour, doing both at once also saves a second visit.

Related Parts

  • Brake parts: discs and pads are already off during a hub job, so it is a good time to replace them.
  • CV axles and drive shafts: a torn CV boot or clicking joint on a front-wheel drive car.
  • Control arms: ball joints and bushes next to the knuckle.
  • Steering parts: tie rod ends that connect to the knuckle.
  • Shocks and struts: worn dampers let wheels hop and add load to bearings.
  • Wheel spacers: spacers change the load on hubs, so check bearings if you run them.

Ordering, Delivery and Returns

All the wheel bearings and hubs listed here can be ordered from this page. Delivery options and times for your country are shown at checkout and on our shipping page. If a part does not match the listing for your vehicle, our returns page explains how to return it, and our warranty page covers faulty items. Compare bolt pattern, flange and connector with your old hub before you fit the new one.

Wheel Bearings and Hubs FAQ

How do I know which wheel bearing is bad?

Drive at a steady speed and steer gently left and right. The noise usually gets louder when weight shifts onto the bad side. Lifting the car and spinning each wheel by hand can also reveal roughness.

Can I replace just the bearing instead of the whole hub?

On some cars the bearing is pressed into the knuckle and can be replaced alone, but it needs a press. A hub assembly or knuckle assembly avoids that work.

How long do wheel bearings last?

Many last 85,000 to 100,000 miles or more. Bad roads, water, large wheels and impacts shorten that.

Is it safe to drive with a noisy wheel bearing?

Only for a short time. Noise means wear has started and it will get worse. Grinding or play means it should be replaced now.

Will a new hub fix my ABS light?

If the light came on because the hub's built-in sensor or tone ring failed, yes. If the fault is in the wiring or the sensor itself, you may need those too. Read the fault code first.

Do I need an alignment after a hub replacement?

A bolt-on hub usually does not change alignment. A knuckle replacement does, so get the alignment checked afterwards.

Do you ship wheel bearings and hubs to my country?

The checkout shows the countries we can deliver to and the cost. See our shipping page for more.

Bearing Types: Press-In Bearings, Hub Assemblies and Knuckle Assemblies

Wheel bearings come in three main forms, and knowing which one your car uses saves time and money. Older cars and many rear axles use tapered roller bearings that you pack with grease and adjust. Many front-wheel-drive cars use a sealed cartridge bearing that is pressed into the steering knuckle; replacing it needs a hydraulic press or a special tool. The most common type today is the hub bearing assembly, also called a hub unit, where the bearing, hub flange and often the ABS sensor ring come as one bolt-on part. Finally, some parts in this collection are complete steering knuckle and hub assemblies, where the knuckle, bearing and hub arrive already put together. Products like the Toyota Camry knuckle and hub assembly and the Ford Focus knuckle and hub pair remove the need to press a bearing at all.

Why Complete Knuckle Assemblies Save Time

Pressing a bearing into a knuckle takes a press, the right adapters and some skill. If the knuckle bore is worn or the old bearing has spun, a new bearing may not seat properly. A complete knuckle assembly sidesteps all of that. You disconnect the tie rod end, ball joint, strut bolts, brake caliper and axle nut, swap the whole unit and reconnect everything. It costs more than a bare bearing, but for many home mechanics and busy workshops it is the faster and more reliable option. It also replaces a knuckle that may have been bent in a pothole strike or kerb impact.

The ABS Connection

Many hub assemblies carry the wheel speed sensor or a magnetic tone ring that the sensor reads. A worn bearing with excessive play can upset the signal and set ABS or traction control warnings. When you replace a hub, check the sensor wire for damage, clean the sensor tip and make sure the connector is clipped in. If an ABS light stays on after replacing a bearing, read the fault code to see whether the sensor itself has failed. You can find wheel speed sensors in our sensors and electronics category.

Torque and the Axle Nut

The axle nut does more than hold the wheel on; on many cars it sets the bearing preload. Always tighten it to the figure in the service manual using a torque wrench with the vehicle's weight on the wheels or with the brakes applied, never with an impact gun alone. Most axle nuts are single-use or must be staked or fitted with a new cotter pin. Tighten wheel lug nuts in a star pattern, then recheck them after the first 50 to 100 km.

Diagnosing Noise Without Guesswork

Bearing noise is often confused with tyre noise. Feathered or cupped tyres can hum just like a bearing. To narrow it down, note whether the noise changes when you sway the car gently left and right on a straight road; a bad bearing usually gets louder when weight shifts onto it. With the car safely raised on stands, spin each wheel by hand and feel for roughness, then grip the tyre at the top and bottom and rock it to check for play. If you find play, also check the ball joints and control arm bushings, because worn joints can feel similar.

Off-Road and Towing Use

Trucks that tow, carry heavy loads or drive through water and mud wear out bearings faster. Water that gets past a damaged seal washes out the grease and starts corrosion. If you regularly cross deep water, check your bearings more often and replace seals or hubs at the first sign of noise. Lifted trucks with larger tyres and wheel spacers put more leverage on the hubs, so choose quality parts and keep an eye on them. Browse off-road and 4x4 parts and towing and trailer parts for the rest of your setup.

What We List on Each Product

Every wheel bearing and hub in this collection shows the vehicle fitment, position (front or rear, left or right) and the OE or interchange number where the supplier provides one. Match the number stamped on your old part, or compare the flange shape, bolt pattern and number of studs with the photos, before you order.

More Questions About Wheel Bearings and Hubs

Is it safe to drive with a noisy wheel bearing?

Only for a short time and with care. A bearing that hums is wearing; one that grinds, clicks or lets the wheel wobble can fail and, in extreme cases, cause the wheel to separate. Have it checked and replaced as soon as possible.

How long does a wheel bearing last?

Many last well over 150,000 km, but potholes, kerb strikes, water crossings, oversized wheels and poor fitting can shorten their life a lot.

Can a bad bearing cause an ABS light?

Yes. Play in a worn bearing or damage to the built-in tone ring can disturb the wheel speed signal and set an ABS or traction control warning.

Do I need special tools?

Bolt-on hub assemblies need only normal hand tools, a large socket for the axle nut and a torque wrench. Press-in bearings need a hydraulic press or a bearing tool kit.

Should I replace the axle nut?

Many manufacturers specify a new axle nut every time, because the nut is staked or designed to deform as it locks. Follow your service manual.

Why does my new bearing make noise?

Check that the correct part was fitted, the axle nut is torqued correctly, the brake dust shield is not rubbing, and that the noise is not coming from the tyres. A bearing damaged by an impact gun during fitting can also be noisy.

Front or Rear, Left or Right?

Wheel bearings and hubs are often different front to rear, and steering knuckles are always side-specific. Front-wheel-drive cars have splined front hubs for the CV axle, while their rear hubs may be non-driven units with a different flange. All-wheel-drive versions of the same car may use different rear hubs from front-wheel-drive versions. Before ordering, confirm the position, whether the corner is driven, and whether the hub carries an ABS sensor or a tone ring. Our product titles state the position and the drive type where it matters.

Choosing Quality Hub Assemblies

A good hub assembly uses quality steel, accurate machining and good seals that keep water and dirt out. Look for listings that state the OE or interchange number, the number of studs and the ABS sensor type, because these show the part was made to match the original design. Fit new wheel studs if the old ones are damaged, keep the mating surfaces clean of rust so the hub sits flat, and torque everything to specification. Taking care at fitting time is the best way to make a new hub last.

Send us your VIN through our request a part page if you are unsure which hub fits.