Window Regulators & Motors

Window Regulators and Motors for Sale

This page lists the window regulators we sell, including complete regulator and motor assemblies and a repair kit for Mercedes-Benz models. You can order every product above online, and each product page gives the vehicle, the years, the door position and the OE or interchange numbers. If a window has dropped into the door, goes up crooked, moves slowly, makes a grinding or clicking noise, or does nothing at all when you press the switch, the regulator or its motor is the usual cause.

The range currently covers the 2012-2016 Chevrolet Cruze, the Nissan Titan, Armada and Infiniti QX56, the 2005-2012 Nissan Frontier and Xterra, and the W204 C-Class and W212 E-Class Mercedes-Benz.

Below you will find the products with their specs, how window regulators work, how to tell whether the regulator, motor or switch is at fault, how to order the right side, what replacement involves, and a set of frequently asked questions.

Window Regulators and Motors in Stock

Other parts for these vehicles are on Chevrolet parts, Nissan parts, Infiniti parts and Mercedes-Benz parts.

How Window Regulators Work

The regulator is the mechanism inside the door that moves the glass up and down. The glass is bolted or clipped to a carrier, and the carrier slides on a rail. In a power window, an electric motor drives that carrier either through a steel cable wound around a drum, or through a toothed gear and arm (a scissor type). Most modern cars use the cable type because it is light and fits thin doors.

When you press the switch, it sends power to the motor in one direction to raise the glass and the other way to lower it. Many cars also have an auto up and down function and a pinch protection system that reverses the window if something gets in the way. Those features need the window to be calibrated after a new motor or regulator is fitted. The power window article on Wikipedia has more on how the systems developed.

Cable regulators wear in predictable ways. The plastic pulleys and the clips that hold the glass become brittle with heat and age, and the cable frays or comes off its pulley. When that happens the glass can drop into the door, tilt, or stop halfway. The motor itself can also wear out, with its brushes or internal gears failing.

Regulator, Motor or Switch? How to Find the Fault

Before ordering window regulators, it is worth spending five minutes working out which part has failed.

  • You press the switch and hear nothing: try the same window from the master switch on the driver's door. If it works from one switch but not the other, the switch is faulty. If nothing works from either, check the fuse, then the motor.
  • You hear the motor run but the glass does not move: the motor is working but the regulator has failed. A broken cable, a stripped drum or a snapped glass clip are the usual causes. This is very common.
  • Grinding, clicking or crunching: the cable is fraying, a pulley is broken or the gear teeth are worn. Replace the regulator soon, before the glass drops.
  • The window goes up crooked or slowly: a clip or carrier has broken on one side, or the rails are bent or dry. Slow windows in cold weather can also be a tired motor.
  • The window works sometimes: if banging the door panel makes it work, the motor has a worn spot. That is a motor fault.
  • The glass has dropped into the door: the glass clips or cable have broken. Tape the glass up from the outside if you need to drive before the repair.

If the motor runs but the regulator is broken, you can replace just the regulator. On many cars, though, a complete regulator and motor assembly costs little more and saves the work of swapping the motor over. That is why two of our listings come as assemblies.

How to Order the Right Window Regulator

  1. Front or rear door. Front and rear regulators are different shapes and lengths.
  2. Left or right. Left means the driver's side on a left-hand drive car and the passenger side on a right-hand drive car. We list both the side and the seat position in our titles, for example front left driver side or front right passenger side. If your car is right-hand drive, go by left and right as seen sitting inside, not by driver and passenger.
  3. With or without motor. Check whether your old motor is still good. If you are not sure, buy the assembly.
  4. Body style. 2-door, 4-door, crew cab and king cab trucks often use different regulators.
  5. OE and interchange numbers. Match numbers like 95265280, 80720-ZT00A, 25401EA003 or A2127201679 with your old part or your parts catalogue.
  6. Connector. Look at the motor plug on your old part and compare it with the product photos.

Replacing a Window Regulator: What to Expect

Most owners with basic tools can do this in one to two hours per door. The steps vary by vehicle, so use the service manual, but the general order is:

  1. Lower the window halfway if it still moves, so you can reach the glass bolts.
  2. Disconnect the battery if your car has door airbags or your manual recommends it.
  3. Remove the door panel. Look for screws behind the door handle, the armrest and the edges. The rest of the panel is held by clips, which pop out with a trim tool.
  4. Disconnect the switch and lock connectors, and the door handle cable.
  5. Carefully peel back the plastic vapour barrier. Keep it intact so you can stick it back to stop water getting in.
  6. Unbolt the glass from the regulator carrier. Tape the glass in the fully up position.
  7. Unplug the motor, undo the regulator bolts and work the regulator out through the access hole.
  8. Fit the new regulator, plug in the motor and test it before refitting the glass.
  9. Bolt the glass to the carrier, run the window up and down a few times, and check it sits evenly in the seals.
  10. Refit the barrier, door panel and switches.
  11. Reset the auto up and down feature. On many cars you hold the switch down for a few seconds with the window fully down, then hold it up for a few seconds when fully up.

The Mercedes repair kit is a little more involved, because you strip the old regulator and fit new clips and parts to the original rails. Take photos of the cable route before you start.

Making Window Regulators Last Longer

  • Clean the window rubber channels and spray them with silicone lubricant once or twice a year. Dry, sticky seals make the motor and regulator work harder.
  • Do not try to force a frozen window. In icy weather, clear the ice from around the glass first.
  • Avoid holding the switch once the window has stopped at the top or bottom.
  • Keep the door drain holes at the bottom of the door clear so water does not sit inside and corrode the regulator and motor.

Related Categories

Ordering, Delivery and Returns

You can buy these window regulators directly from this page. Delivery options and times for your country appear at checkout and on our shipping page. If a regulator does not match the door or vehicle listed, our returns page explains how to return it, and the warranty page covers faulty parts. Compare the new part with the old one before you bolt it in.

Window Regulators FAQ

Can I replace just the window motor?

Yes, on most cars the motor unbolts from the regulator. If the regulator is also worn, the assembly is the better buy.

Why does my window go down but not up?

Often a worn switch contact or a weak motor. Try the window from both switches. If it is the same from both, the motor or regulator is the likely problem.

Is it safe to drive with a broken window regulator?

You can drive, but the glass may slide down and leave the car open. Tape the glass up from the outside until you can fix it.

How long does a window regulator replacement take?

About one to two hours per door for most people working at home, a little longer the first time.

Do I need to program a new window motor?

Many cars need a quick reset for the auto up and down and pinch protection features. Your owner's manual will have the steps.

What is in the Mercedes repair kit?

It is an 8-piece kit for the front windows of the W204 and W212 models, made to replace the parts of the original regulator that usually break. The product page shows each piece.

Do you deliver window regulators to my country?

You will see the delivery options at checkout. More details are on our shipping page.

Cable-Type vs Scissor-Type Regulators

There are two main types of window regulator. A cable-type regulator uses a motor-driven drum that winds steel cables over pulleys, pulling a carrier that holds the glass up and down a rail. Most modern cars use this design because it is light and compact. Its weak points are the plastic pulleys, the cable ends and the glass carrier clips, which crack or come loose with age. A scissor-type regulator, common on older vehicles and many trucks, uses a pair of metal arms that cross like scissors, driven by a gear sector and the motor. It is heavier but very robust, and failures usually come from worn gear teeth or a tired motor. Knowing which type your vehicle uses helps you understand the noises and symptoms.

Typical Symptoms by Failure Type

  • Window drops into the door: the cable has snapped or the glass has come off its carrier. The motor often still runs.
  • Grinding or clicking, but no movement: stripped gears in the motor or a slipping cable drum.
  • Window goes up crooked or slowly: a frayed cable, a broken pulley, or dry window channels causing drag.
  • No sound at all: check the fuse, switch and connector before blaming the motor.
  • Works from one switch but not the other: almost always a switch or wiring fault, not the regulator.

Regulator with Motor or Regulator Only?

Many replacement regulators come as a complete assembly with the motor already fitted, like our Chevrolet Cruze front left regulator and motor and the Nissan Titan front right regulator with motor. A complete assembly costs a little more, but saves time and removes the risk of fitting an old, worn motor to a new regulator. If your motor is fairly new and works well, a regulator-only part can be cheaper. Repair kits, like the Mercedes W204 and W212 window regulator repair kit, replace just the clips and sliders that commonly break, which is the most economical fix when the rails and cables are still good.

Tools for the Job

Most window regulator replacements can be done at home with basic tools: a set of sockets and Torx bits, a trim removal tool to unclip the door panel without breaking it, a flat screwdriver, tape and a pair of gloves. Some cars have rivets holding the regulator, so you may need a drill and a rivet gun or replacement bolts. Have a strong roll of painter's tape ready to hold the glass in the up position while you work. Wear gloves, because the inside of a door has sharp metal edges.

Protecting the Door Panel and Vapour Barrier

Take your time removing the door panel. The clips are easy to break, and some cars hide screws behind small covers in the armrest, the door handle cup or the mirror trim. Behind the panel is a plastic vapour barrier stuck on with butyl sealant. Peel it back carefully and stick it back down when you are finished; it stops water dripping inside the door from reaching the interior and the speaker. If it tears, seal the tear with tape.

Resetting Auto-Up and Pinch Protection

On many modern cars, the window has an auto up or down function and pinch protection that stops the glass if something is in the way. After replacing a regulator or disconnecting the battery, these functions may stop working until the window is re-learned. A common method is to run the window fully down and hold the switch for a few seconds, then fully up and hold again. The exact steps vary, so check your owner's manual.

Window Channels and Seals

A new regulator will struggle if the glass runs in dry, sticky or worn rubber channels. Clean the channels with a damp cloth and apply a silicone spray made for rubber. Replace any channel that is torn or has come away from the frame. Doing this when the door is open saves extra work later and helps the new motor last longer.

Related Door Parts

With the door panel off, it is a good time to check the lock actuator, latch and handle rods. If your power locks are slow or the door is hard to open, see our door locks, handles and actuators. Side mirrors also wire through the door; browse car side mirrors if yours is damaged.

More Questions About Window Regulators and Motors

How long does it take to replace a window regulator?

On most cars, an experienced home mechanic can do it in one to three hours per door. Doors with riveted regulators or complex trim take longer.

Can I drive with a broken window regulator?

You can, but the glass may slide down, leaving the car open to rain and theft. Tape the glass in the up position, or wedge it, until you can fit a new regulator.

Why does my new regulator make noise?

Check that the cables are routed correctly over the pulleys, the glass is fully clamped in the carrier, and the window channels are lubricated. A cable that has jumped a pulley will click or grind.

Do front and rear doors use the same regulator?

No. Front and rear doors, and left and right sides, almost always use different regulators. Order by exact position.

Should I replace the switch too?

Only if testing shows the switch is faulty. If the window works from one switch but not another, the switch or its wiring is the likely cause.

What if the glass is cracked?

Replace the glass at the same time as the regulator if it is cracked or chipped at the edges, because damaged glass can shatter when the new regulator clamps it.

Window Regulator Problems on Popular Models

Some vehicles are known for window regulator failures. The Mercedes-Benz C-Class W204 and E-Class W212 often suffer from broken plastic clips and sliders that hold the glass to the regulator rails; the glass drops or tilts while the motor still runs. Our 8-piece repair kit replaces those parts. On Nissan Frontier and Xterra trucks from 2005 to 2012, the driver's window regulator is a common replacement because it gets the most use. On the Nissan Titan and Chevrolet Cruze, front regulators with motors are frequent replacements as the cars age. Knowing the common failure on your model helps you order the right part first time.

Keeping the Glass Safe During Repairs

Before you unbolt the regulator, secure the glass. On many cars you can raise the glass to the top and tape it firmly to the door frame with strong tape across the top. On others, you remove the glass completely and set it somewhere safe on a soft cloth. Never let the glass drop into the door, because it can shatter or jam. When refitting, make sure the glass sits fully in its clamps or carrier before tightening the bolts, and run the window up and down slowly to check it runs straight before refitting the door panel.

Used or New?

Used regulators from scrapyards can be cheaper, but they have the same age and wear as your failed part. A new regulator, especially with a new motor, gives you a fresh start and is usually the better long-term choice.

Manual Window Regulators

Older and basic models use manual window regulators operated by a crank handle. They are simpler but can still wear, with stripped gears, a broken spring or worn arms making the handle spin or the window drop. Manual regulators are usually cheaper and easier to replace than power ones. If you are replacing a manual regulator, check the handle and its clip too, since a worn handle can slip on the shaft.

If you are not sure which regulator fits, send us your vehicle model, year, the door position and the part number from your old regulator through our request a part page, and we will check for you.

Every window regulator on this page lists the vehicle, years and door position it fits, and whether the motor is included, so you can compare it with your old part before ordering.